Sunday, November 1, 2009

In Agonda...not quite the season happening yet.

Back in Agonda! This is earlier than we've ever been here and it's the run up to the Goa tourist season. It's absolutely manic 'out there' in the villages on the coast. As the majority of structures - the 'coco-huts' and associated restaurants and some other businesses - have to be torn down at the end of each season (in April) and rebuilt before the start (mid-November), there is a wild rush to first get the huts re-built.
With not enough labour in Goa to do this, people come from nearby States to build like mad for a month or so, then they rush back home to work on their own necessary projects (many of the builders are farmers). As well, due to the demand, prices not for just labour but for all the necessities (lumber, bamboo, etc) for these projects skyrocket and availability plummets. Given the wild, wet and hot climate, there's no easy way to predict exactly what's needed so it's - to say the least - a scramble to get things ready for the season.
We're extremely fortunate that our small house was ready for us (big thanks to Godwin & Jenny), but none of the coco-huts in Agonda are finished yet. There are some places to stay for the early foreigner travellers, and a few restaurants, but the majority of places to stay and eat....are still a lot of hard work away. Agonda has grown since I was last here (Jan of 2008), but is luckily still a much more contained travellers stop than the rest of Goa (which is a mix of modern hotels for fly-in 1 or 2 week tourists from Europe and party/rave stops for those looking for wild times). Hopefully, the local village council and the actual residents of the village will keep it from exploding into these other messes. Many of the beach properties are being rented by 'outsiders' from other states to set up small businesses. Still, as long as the raves don't start happening, along with the 'who gives a damn where we are, let's just ignore local culture and customs and screw up this place and party', and the beach doesn't turn into a chock-a-block' Palolem (a nearby previously beautiful place) then maybe things will be ok.
Alright...enough rant.
It's been pretty hot and steamy here for us - certainly hotter than our usual stops in during mid-winter. It's really nice having a small house with a fridge, cooking facilities, etc. Very comfortable, but even with the fans running full blast and windows open.....hot & sticky. We've seen it worse in other parts of India in the summer (youch!), but it's still a big change from rain in Victoria. The only disappointment we've had is that my favorite little restaurant in Chaudi (a nearby larger village), serving just fabulous South Indian vegetarian fare (mmmm..masala dosa, iddlies, etc...mmmmm)has disappeared! And no replacement! Argh! one of the best things about going to Chaudi on Saturday market day was a stop or two or three at the restaurant during the course of a shopping stop. "Ah well...just wish I knew why....even a new restauranteur (from Delhi) in the nearby Patnam was looking forward to eating there.

First sunset in Agonda:


First meal - a large breakfast first morning:

Our residence - not quite finished 'recovering' from the monsoon's smackdown, but on the way (and with a large hut being built on the roof!):

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

so how come you don't get the penthouse suite?
hwo do you get up to the top hut? don't see the elevator.
Too bad about the dosa palace in chowdi. Where did it go? Franchise? Macdo taking over?
Ann looks very relaxed enroute on the voyage:)-